Water soluble polymer complexes with surfactants

ABSTRACT

A complex including a polymer and a surfactant formed by polymerizing a monomer mixture containing:
         (A) acid functional monomers at least partially neutralized with one or more amines according to one or more of formulas (I) through (IV):       

       R 1 —NR 2 R 3   (I)
 
       R 1 —N + R 2 R 3 R 7 X −   (II)
 
       R 4 —C(O)—NR 5 —R 6 —NR 2 R 3   (III)
 
       R 4 —C(O)—NR 5 —R 6 —N + R 2 R 3 R 7 X −   (IV)
 
     wherein R 1  and R 4  are independently a C 8 -C 24  group; R 2 , R 3  and R 5  are independently H or a C 1 -C 6  group, or where R 2  and R 3  combine to form an anelled ring of from 4 to 12 carbon atoms in length optionally containing hetero atoms; R 6  is C 1 -C 24  group, R 7  is H or a C 1 -C 12  group, and X is a halide, a sulfate or a sulfonate;
         (B) one or more cationic monomers; and optionally   (C) one or more other monomers.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional PatentApplication Ser. No. 60/563,429, filed Apr. 19, 2004, and entitled“Water Soluble Polymer Complexes with Surfactants.”

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to polymer-surfactant compositions andmethods for using such compositions, and formulations containing them inpersonal care applications. The formulations can be hair or skin careproducts such as conditioners, hair dyes, permanent waves, hairrelaxers, hair bleaches, hair setting compositions, styling gels,mousses, hair gels, aftershaves, sunscreens, hand lotions, moisturizersand shaving creams.

2. Brief Description of the Prior Art

The surface properties of keratin are of interest in cosmetic science,and there has been a long-standing desire to discover ingredients whichwill beneficially affect the topical and bulk condition of keratinoussubstrates, such as hair and skin. For example, such ingredients musthave adequate adherent properties, so that they are not only adsorbedinitially, but are also retained on exposure to water. This property isreferred to as “substantivity,” i.e., the ability of a material to beadsorbed onto keratin and to resist removal by water rinse-off.

Hair is composed of keratin, a sulfur-containing fibrous protein. Theiso-electric point of keratin, and more specifically of hair, isgenerally in the pH range of 3.2 to 4.0. Therefore, at the pH of atypical shampoo, hair carries a net negative charge. Consequently,cationic polymers have long been used as conditioners in shampooformulations, or as a separate treatment, in order to improve the wetand dry combability of the hair. The substantivity of the cationicpolymers for negatively charged hair along with film formationfacilitates detangling during wet hair combing and reducing staticflyaway during dry hair combing. Cationic polymers generally also impartsoftness and suppleness to hair.

When cationic polymers are added to shampoos (or to skin care productssuch as cleaning compositions) containing anionic surfactants, formationof highly surface active association complexes generally takes place,which imparts improved foam stability to the shampoo. Maximum surfaceactivity and foam stability, or lather, are achieved at nearstoichiometric ratios of anionic surfactant to cationic polymer, wherethe complex is least water soluble. Generally, cationic conditionersexhibit some incompatibility at these ratios. Compatibility gives acommercially more desirable clear formulation, while incompatibilityleads to a haze or precipitation, which is aesthetically less desirablein some formulations.

Hair fixative properties such as curl retention are believed to bedirectly related to film-forming properties of cationic polymers as wellas to molecular weight, with performance generally increasing withincreasing molecular weight. However, the fixative properties conferredby cationic polymers generally tend to have a reciprocal relationship toother conditioning properties, i.e., good curl retention usually meansthat properties such as wet combability will suffer, and vice versa.

Keratin conditioning additives generally are of three primary types:cationic polymers, proteins or protein derivatives and fatty quaternaryammonium compounds. Commonly used cationic polymers include quaternarynitrogen-containing hydroxyethyl cellulose compounds, copolymers ofvinylpyrrolidone and dimethylamino-ethylmethacrylate, and aminofunctional polydimethyl-siloxane. Hydrolyzed animal protein has beenfrequently used as a keratin conditioner. Also used are natural productssuch as collagen and casein. Suitable quaternary ammonium compoundsinclude such products as stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.

Generally, two broad areas of skin care products have been recognized asskin conditioners: emollients and humectants. Emollients generallyprovide improved moisture retention in the skin andplasticization/softening of the skin. Common commercial emollients aremineral oil; petrolatum; aliphatic alcohols, such as stearyl alcohol;lanolin and its derivatives; glycol stearate; and fatty acids, such astriethanolamine oleate. Humectants generally attract moisture, retardevaporation of water from the skin surface, and plasticize/soften theskin. Common commercial humectants include glycerin, propylene glycol,sorbitols and polyethylene glycols.

A desirable skin conditioner should impart at least some of theattributes of an emollient or a humectant, as well as provide improvedlubricity and feel to the skin after treatment and/or reduce skinirritation caused by other components in the conditioner such as, forexample, soaps, detergents, foam boosters, surfactants and perfumes. Itis known by those skilled in the art that cationic polymers can beemployed as skin and nail conditioners.

At times, it is also desirable that the ingredients of skin and nailcare products have adequate adherent properties, so that they are notonly adsorbed initially, but are also retained on exposure to water.This property, as in hair care applications, is referred to as“substantivity,” i.e., the ability of a material contacted with thekeratin of skin or nails to resist removal by water rinse-off.Generally, the pH of the keratin under typical use conditions, i.e., onskin and nails, carry a net negative charge. Consequently, cationicpolymers have long been used as conditioners in nail and skin careformulations. The substantivity of the cationic polymers for negativelycharged skin and nails leads to film formation that facilitateslubricity, moisturizing and feel.

The skin and nail conditioning properties of lubricity, moisturizing andfeel are related to the film-forming properties of the cationicpolymers, as well as to molecular weight, with performance generallyincreasing with increasing molecular weight.

Conditioning additives comprising copolymers of dimethyldiallylammoniumchloride and other monomers are well known; see, e.g., EP 308189 (withacrylamide), EP 0 308 190 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,803,071 (with hydroxyethylcellulose). Amphoteric betaines have also been employed in cosmeticcompositions; see GB 2,113,245, which discloses use of betainizeddialkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylate together with a cationic polymer.

The use of polymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (DMDAAC) in thetreatment of keratin is also known. See, e.g., U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,175,572and 3,986,825. U.S. Pat. No. 5,296,218 discloses DMDAAC-based ampholyteterpolymers containing acrylamide for hair care applications, while U.S.Pat. No. 5,275,809 discloses DMDAAC-based ampholyte terpolymerscontaining acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid for hair care uses.

U.S. Pat. No. 4,923,694 to Shih et al. discloses copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and (meth)acrylic cationic monomers that are useful fortreating hair. These polymers are able to provide good hair stylingproperties at low concentrations of cationic monomer, but providelimited substantivity due to their relatively low cationic chargedensity. When the cationic charge density is increased, the polymersdisclosed by Shih et al. become difficult to formulate with due to theirdecreasing compatibility with anionic surfactants.

U.S. Pat. No. 5,609,862 to Chen et al. discloses hair conditioningpolymers comprised of acrylamide, acrylic acid and a cationic monomer.The conditioning polymers disclosed by Chen et al. are very compatiblewith anionic surfactants, but demonstrate poor compatibility withamphoteric and cationic surfactants. Further, the conditioning polymersof Chen et al. provide poor hair styling properties and only minorconditioning benefit to hair.

U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,879,670 and 6,066,315 to Melby et al. discloseconditioning polymers that include acrylic acid oracrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid monomers, (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride cationic monomers and (meth)acrylate esternonionic monomers. The conditioning polymers of Melby et al. aredifficult to formulate at low pH and do not provide good hair stylingproperties.

U.S. Pat. No. 4,578,267 to Salamone discloses a method of conditioningskin by applying to skin a composition which includes emollients andhumectants and a sulfonic acid functional homopolymer neutralized withan alkoxylated nitrogen compound. U.S. Pat. No. 4,859,458 to Salamone etal. discloses similar compositions for use in hair conditioning. Thepolymers disclosed by Salamone, however, have poor substantivity tokeratin substrates.

U.S. Patent Application Publication 2003/0064044 to Chen et al.discloses a composition for treating a keratin-based substrate thatincludes a cosmetically acceptable medium containing a water-solubleinterjacent complex of a first water-soluble polymer and a secondwater-soluble polymer formed by polymerizing one or more water-solublemonomers in the presence of the first water-soluble polymer.

There remains a need for a polymeric conditioning additive forkeratin-based substrates that provides excellent hair stylingproperties, as well as excellent conditioning properties to hair, skinand nails.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to a complex including a polymer and asurfactant formed by polymerizing a monomer mixture containing:

-   -   (A) acid functional monomers at least partially neutralized with        one or more amines according to one or more of formulas (I)        through (IV):

R¹—NR²R³  (I)

R¹—N⁺R²R³R⁷X⁻  (II)

R⁴—C(O)—NR⁵—R⁶—NR²R³  (III)

R⁴—C(O)—NR⁵—R⁶—N⁺R²R³R⁷X⁻  (IV)

where R¹ and R⁴ are independently C₈-C₂₄ linear, branched or cyclicalkyl, aryl, alkenyl, aralkyl or aralkyl; R², R³ and R⁵ areindependently H or C₁-C₆ linear, branched or cyclic alkyl; R⁶ is C₁-C₂₄linear, branched or cyclic alkylene, arylene, alkenylene, aralkylene oraralkylene, R⁷ is H, C₁-C₁₂ linear, branched or cyclic alkylene,arylene, alkenylene, aralkylene or aralkylene, and X is a halide, asulfate or a sulfonate;

-   -   (B) one or more cationic monomers; and optionally    -   (C) one or more other monomers.

The present invention is also directed to a composition for treating akeratin-based substrate containing a cosmetically acceptable medium thatincludes the above-described polymer-surfactant complex.

The present invention also relates to a method of treating akeratin-based substrate including applying a cosmetically acceptablemedium containing from 0.1-99.9% by weight of the above-describedpolymer-surfactant complex to the substrate.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, allnumbers or expressions referring to quantities of ingredients, reactionconditions, etc., used in the specification and claims are to beunderstood as modified in all instances by the term “about.”

The terms (meth)acrylic and (meth)acrylate are meant to include bothacrylic and methacrylic acid derivatives, such as the correspondingalkyl esters often referred to as acrylates and (meth)acrylates, whichthe term (meth)acrylate is meant to encompass.

As used herein, the term “keratin” refers to human or animal hair, skinand/or nails.

As used herein, the term “active basis” refers to a concentration ofadditive based on the active solids in the stock solution.

As used herein, the term “effective amount” refers to that amount of acomposition necessary to bring about a desired result, such as, forexample, the amount needed to treat a keratin-containing substraterelative to a particular purpose, such as conditioning.

Unless otherwise indicated, all molecular weight values recited hereinand in the claims refer to weight average molecular weight (Mw) valuesdetermined using gel permeation chromatography (GPC) using appropriatestandards.

The present invention is directed to novel water-soluble polymersurfactant complexes and to the use of the same in the treatment ofkeratin-containing substrates, particularly human skin, hair or nails.

The present water-soluble polymer-surfactant complexes are generallyuseful in cosmetic formulations and provide particularly improvedconditioning and hair styling properties to hair and skin care products.For example, in addition to improved conditioning properties, asmeasured by combability, substantivity, flyaway and/or hair feel, thepresent water-soluble polymer surfactant complexes can, at the sametime, improve hair fixative properties, such as curl retention andprovide moisturizing properties.

In skin and nail conditioning products, the water-soluble polymersurfactant complexes of the present invention function to improveproperties such as retention of moisture, softening of the skin,attraction of air moisture, retardation of water loss, feel andreduction of skin irritations caused by contact with cosmeticingredients.

In particular, the present invention is directed to a complex containinga polymer and a surfactant formed by polymerizing a monomer mixturecontaining (A) acid functional monomers, (B) one or more cationicmonomers and, optionally, (C) one or more other monomers. The acidfunctional monomers (A) are at least partially neutralized with one ormore amines according to one or more of formulas (I) through (IV):

R¹—NR²R³  (I)

R¹—N⁺R²R³R⁷X⁻  (II)

R⁴—C(O)—NR⁵—R⁶—NR²R³  (III)

R⁴—C(O)—NR⁵—R⁶—N⁺R²R³R⁷X⁻  (IV)

In the present invention, R¹ and R⁴ are independently linear, branchedor cyclic alkyl, aryl, alkenyl, aralkyl or aralkyl groups having atleast 8 carbon atoms, in some cases at least 10 carbon atoms, in othercases at least 12 carbon atoms and in other cases at least 14 carbonatoms and up to 24 carbon atoms, in some cases up to 20 carbon atoms,and in other cases up to 18 carbon atoms. The number of carbon atoms inR¹ and R⁴ can range between any of the values recited above. In aparticular embodiment of the invention, R¹ and R⁴ can be any of thecommon and/or naturally occurring groups selected from coco, oleyl,ricinoleyl, stearyl, isostearyl, behenyl, lauryl, soyyl, sunfloweryl andmixtures thereof. In many instances, the carbon chain length of R¹ andR⁴ will be a mixture of chain lengths. In a particular embodiment of theinvention, at least 75%, in some cases at least 80%, in other cases atleast 85%, in some instances at least 90% and up to 100%, in some casesup to 99% and in other cases up to 95% by weight of the R¹ and R⁴ groupswill be from C₈-C₂₄ in length. R², R³ and R⁵ can independently be H orC₁-C₆ linear, branched or cyclic alkyl. In an embodiment of theinvention, R² and R³ can combine to form an anelled ring of from 4 to 12carbon atoms in length that can optionally contain hetero atoms alongthe ring selected from O, S, and N and can be cycloalkyl or aromatic incharacter. A non-limiting example of such a ring is a morpholinyl ring.R⁶ can be C₁-C₂₄ linear, branched or cyclic alkylenyl, arylenyl,alkenylenyl, aralkylenyl or aralkylenyl. In a particular embodiment ofthe invention, R⁶ is selected from ethylenyl, propylenyl, isopropylenyl,butylenyl and isobutylenyl. R⁷ can be H or C₁-C₁₂ linear, branched orcyclic alkylene, arylene, alkenylene, aralkylene or aralkylene. In anembodiment of the invention, R⁷ is selected from H, methyl, ethyl,propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutyl. X is any suitable counter ion andcan be a halide, a sulfate or a sulfonate.

In an embodiment of the invention, the amines have an amine value of atleast 130, in some cases at least 135, in other cases at least 140 andin some instances at least 150 mg KOH/g. Also, the amines can have anamine value up to 250, in some cases up to 240, and in other cases up to225 mg KOH/g. The amine value of the amines can vary between any of thevalues recited above.

The monomer mixture can include anionic monomer (A) at a level of atleast 10%, in some cases at least 20%, in other cases at least 25% andin some situations at least 30% based on the number of moles of (A), (B)and (C). When the amount of monomer (A) is too low, the resultingpolymer can have poor compatibility and/or not be capable of carryingsufficient surfactant counter ion to provide desired properties. Also,anionic monomer (A) can be present at up to 90%, in some cases up to80%, in other cases up to 70%, in some situations up to 60% and in othersituations up to 50% based on the number of moles of (A), (B) and (C).If the amount of anionic monomer (A) is too high, the polymer may notprovide desired properties or may carry too much surfactant counter ionleading to an incompatible or non-flowable material. The amount ofanionic monomer (A) can vary between any of the values recited above.

The monomer mixture can include cationic monomer (B) at a level of atleast 1%, in some cases at least 5%, in other cases at least 10%, insome situations at least 15% and in other situations at least 20% basedon the number of moles of (A), (B) and (C). When the amount of monomer(B) is too low, the resulting polymer can have poor compatibility and/orpoor substantivity. Also, cationic monomer (B) can be present at up to50%, in some cases up to 40%, in other cases up to 35%, in somesituations up to 30% and in other situations up to 25% based on thenumber of moles of (A), (B) and (C). If the amount of cationic monomer(B) is too high, the polymer may not provide desired properties. Theamount of cationic monomer (B) can vary between any of the valuesrecited above.

The monomer mixture can optionally contain other monomers (C). When themonomers (C) are present, they are included at a level of at least 0.1%,in some cases at least 1%, in other cases at least 5% and in somesituations at least 10% based on the number of moles of (A), (B) and(C). Also, when present, the other monomers (C) can be used at up to80%, in some cases up to 70%, in other cases up to 60%, in somesituations up to 50% and in other situations up to 40% based on thenumber of moles of (A), (B) and (C). The amount of other monomers (C)can vary between any of the values recited above.

The sum of the mole percentages of (A), (B) and (C) is typically 100%.

In an embodiment of the invention, the number of moles of acidfunctional monomer (A) is greater than the number of moles of cationicmonomer (B). In this embodiment, the molar ratio of anionic monomer tocationic monomer can be at least 1.01:1, in some cases at least 1.05:1,in other cases at least 1.1:1 and in some situations at least 1.15:1.Also, the molar ratio of anionic monomer to cationic monomer can be upto 10:1, in some cases up to 5:1, in other cases up to 2.5:1, in somesituations up to 2:1 and in certain instances up to 1.5:1. The molarratio of anionic monomer to cationic monomer can be any of the valuesstated above or range between any of the values recited above.

In an embodiment of the invention, the anionic monomer (A) can includecarboxylic acid functional monomers, sulfonic acid functional monomersand as well as combinations thereof. As a non-limiting example, thecarboxylic acid functional monomers can include (meth)acrylic acid;maleic acid; itaconic acid; N-(meth)acrylamidopropyl, N,N-dimethyl,amino acetic acid; N-(meth)acryloyloxyethyl, N,N-dimethyl, amino aceticacid; N-(meth)acryloyloxypropyl, N,N-dimethyl, amino acetic acid;crotonic acid; (meth)acrylamidoglycolic acid; 2 (meth)acrylamido 2methylbutanoic acid and mixtures thereof. Also, non-limiting examples ofsulfonic acid functional monomers include2-(meth)acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid; sulfonated styrene;vinyl sulfonic acids; (meth)allyl ether sulfonic acids; (meth)allyloxybenzenesulfonic acid; and combinations thereof. In all cases, thecorresponding salts of any of the acid functional monomers as well asany anhydrides can be used.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the acid functionalmonomers are selected from (meth)acrylic acid and2-(meth)acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid. In an embodiment ofthe invention, the 2-(meth)acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acidmonomer is included, along with a carboxylic acid functional monomer, inan amount sufficient to improve compatibility of the resulting polymerwith other ingredients in a formulation in which the polymer isincluded. In this embodiment, the 2-(meth)acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid can be included at a level of at least 1 mole %, in somecases at least 2 mole %, and in other cases at least 3 mole % and up to20 mole %, in some cases up to 15 mole %, in other cases up to 10 mole %and in some situations up to 5 mole %. In this embodiment, the2-(meth)acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer can be presentat any level or can range between any level recited above.

In the present invention, the acid functional monomers are at leastpartially neutralized with a suitable amine as described above.Particular and non-limiting examples of suitable amines that can be usedinclude oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine,stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine,soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, quaternary analogs of such amines asdescribed in formulas (II) and (IV), and mixtures thereof.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the amine is added to oneor more carboxylic acid functional monomers to form a solution of theacid-amine salt and the remainder of the carboxylic acid monomer. Theacid-amine mixture is then added to a mixture containing the remainderof the monomers, which are then polymerized as described below. Byamine, in this context, is meant any compound according to formulas (I)through (IV) as described above. In this embodiment, the amount of aminecan be an amount sufficient to provide at least 1%, in some cases atleast 2%, in other cases at least 2.5%, in some situations at least 3%and in other situations at least 5% by weight of the combination of themonomers (A), (B), and (C) and amine. If the amount of amine is too low,the resulting polymer may not provide desired properties as indicatedbelow. Also, the amount of amine can be an amount sufficient to provideup to 30%, in some cases up to 25% and in other cases up to 20% byweight of the combination of the monomers (A), (B), and (C) and amine.If the amount of amine is too high and depending on the particularamine, the resulting polymer may not provide suitably stablesolutions/dispersions in water. The amount of amine in the presentpolymer can be any of the values recited above or can vary between anyof the values recited above.

In a further embodiment of the invention, the degree of neutralizationof the one or more carboxylic acid functional monomers provided by theamine can be at least 0.25%, in some cases at least 0.5%, in other casesat least 0.75%, and in some situations at least 1%. If the degree ofneutralization provided by the amine is too low, the resulting polymermay not provide desired properties as indicated below. Also, the degreeof neutralization provided by the amine can be up to 50%, in some casesup to 40%, in other cases up to 30%, in some situations up to 25%, inother situations up to 20% and in some instances up to 10%. If theamount of neutralization provided by the amine is too high and dependingon the particular amine, the resulting polymer may not provide suitablystable solutions/dispersions in water. The degree of neutralizationprovided by the amine in the present polymer can be any of the valuesrecited above or can vary between any of the values recited above.

A particular advantage in the present invention is that manypolymer-cationic surfactant combinations that were not previouslyobtainable in a uniform desirable form can now be prepared in the formof a uniform stable complex. As a non-limiting example, amines which areeither in a solid (lauramidopropyl dimethylamine as a non-limitingexample), flake (stearamidodimethylamine or behenamidodimethylamine asnon-limiting examples) or pastes (wheat germamidodimethylamine andsoyamidodimethylamine as non-limiting examples) cannot be uniformlymixed with a polymer after polymerization. In the present invention, theabove-mentioned types of surfactants can be dissolved by way of aneutralization reaction with the one or more carboxylic acid functionalmonomers, which are then added to an aqueous monomer phase andpolymerized to form a stable polymer-surfactant complex as describedbelow. In the cases of liquid amines, (cocamidodimethylamine andoleamido dimethylamine being non-limiting examples), mixing afterpolymerization typically leads to a non-uniform and undesirable paste.Using the present invention provides a uniform polymer surfactantcomplex.

In addition to the amines indicated above, other neutralizing agentsknown in the art can be used to neutralize the acid functional groups inthe monomers in (A) either prior to or after polymerization. As such,aqueous solutions or mixtures containing the above-described complex canbe neutralized to a pH to at least 2, in some cases at least 2.5, inother cases at least 3, in some situations at least 4 and in othersituations at least 4.5. Also, the complexes can be neutralized to a pHof up to 9, in some cases up to 8.5, in other cases up to 8, in somesituations up to 7.5, in other situations up to 7 and in certaininstances up to 6.5. The present complexes can be neutralized to a pHranging between any of the values recited above.

Any suitable cationic monomer can be used in (B). Non-limiting examplesof suitable cationic monomers include (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium halides, (meth)acryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium halides,(meth)acryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium methyl sulfate, diallyl dialkylammonium halides and in particular acrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammoniumchloride (APTAC), methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride(MAPTAC), diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DADMAC), acryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (AETAC), methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride (METAC) and mixtures thereof.

Any suitable monomer that is not included in (A) or (B) that willprovide desired properties to the polymer can be used in the othermonomers (C). Non-limiting examples of suitable other monomers (C)include (meth)acrylamide, C₁-C₂₂ linear or branched alkyl or aryl(meth)acrylate, C₁-C₂₂ linear or branched N-alkyl or N-aryl(meth)acrylamide, N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, C₁-C₂₂ linear orbranched alkyl or aryl ethoxylated (meth)acrylate, C₁-C₂₂ linear orbranched alkyl or aryl propoxylated (meth)acrylate; N,N—C₁-C₂₂ linear orbranched dialkyl (meth)acrylamide, styrene, C₁-C₂₂ linear or branchedalkyl or aryl allyl ethers and mixtures thereof.

In another embodiment of the invention, at least a portion of theanionic monomers in (A) used in the polymer-surfactant complex of thepresent invention include a surfactant, which is able to carry acationic charge, as a counter ion. Any surfactant that is able to carrya cationic charge can be used. The amount of cationic charged surfactantused will depend on the amount of acid containing anionic monomerutilized in the present polymer-surfactant complex. The cationic chargedmonomer can be present at 0.1 to 100 mol %, in some cases from 1 to 90mol %, in other cases from 5 to 80 mol % and certain situations from 10to 75 mol % based on the amount of anionic monomer present in thepolymer-surfactant complex of the present invention. The amount ofsurfactant, which is able to carry a cationic charge, can often dependon the degree of neutralization and/or the desired pH.

Any cationic surfactant can be used as a counter ion for the sulfonicacid containing anionic monomer of the present polymer-surfactantcomplex. Desirable cationic surfactants include, but are not limited to,quaternary ammonium surfactants represented by general formula (V):

N⁺R¹⁰ ₄  (V)

where each occurrence of R¹⁰ is independently a C₁ to C₂₂ alkyl, aryl,alkyl aryl, C₁ to C₂₂ ethoxylated or propoxylated alkyl, ethoxylated orpropoxylated aryl, or ethoxylated or propoxylated alkyl aryl group.

At appropriate pH ranges, amphoteric surfactants carry a cationic chargeand can form suitable counter ion complexes with the anionic monomer ofthe present polymer-surfactant complex at the same levels as cationicsurfactants. Without being construed as limiting the invention in anyway, examples of surfactants which can be used in the present inventionare those which are broadly described as derivatives of aliphaticsecondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic substituentcontains from about 8 to 18 carbon atoms and also contains an anionicwater solubilizing group e.g., carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate orphosphonate. Examples of compounds falling within this definition aresodium 3-dodecyl-aminopropionate, sodium 3-dodecylaminopropanesulfonate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, N-alkyltaurines such as the oneprepared by reacting dodecylamine with sodium isethionate according tothe teaching of U.S. Pat. No. 2,658,072, N-higher alkyl aspartic acidssuch as those produced according to the teaching of U.S. Pat. No.2,438,091, and the products described in U.S. Pat. No. 2,528,378.

At appropriate pH ranges, zwitterionic surfactants carry a cationiccharge and can form suitable counter ion complexes with the anionicmonomer of the present polymer-surfactant complex at the same level ascationic surfactants. Examples of suitable zwitterionic surfactantsinclude, but are not limited to betaines. Betaine surfactants that canbe used in the present invention include the high alkyl betaines, suchas coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine,cocobetaine, lauryl amidopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine, lauryl dimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyldimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethylbetaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma-carboxypropyl betaine, and laurylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethyl betaine. The sulfobetaines canbe represented by coco dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethylsulfopropyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl sulfoethyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropyl betaine and the like; amidobetaines andamidosulfobetaines, wherein the RCONH(CH₂)₃ radical is attached to thenitrogen atom of the betaine, are also useful in this invention.

The polymer-surfactant complexes of the present invention provideseveral advantages. The polymer-surfactant complexes provide a means offormulating with cationic charged surfactants in anionic surfactantformulations that would otherwise be incompatible with such surfactants.The polymer-surfactant complexes provide a means of delivering thecationic surfactants to the keratin substrate. Further, the combinedaction of the polymer and cationic charged surfactant provides enhancedand synergistic conditioning properties to hair, skin and nails notavailable in prior art formulations.

In an embodiment of the invention, the polymer in the polymer-surfactantcomplex of the invention can include a branching quantity of one or moremonomers that have two or more sites of reactive unsaturation. In thisembodiment, any suitable monomers that have two or more sites ofreactive unsaturation can be used. Suitable monomers having two or moresites of reactive unsaturation include, but are not limited to, ethyleneglycol di(meth)acrylate, triethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate,tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, 1,3-butylene glycoldi(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate, 1,4-butanedioldi(meth)acrylate, neopentyl glycol di(meth)acrylate, 1,6-hexanedioldi(meth)acrylate, pentaerythritol di(meth)acrylate, pentaerythritoltri(meth)acrylate, pentaerythritol tetra(meth)acrylate, glyceroldi(meth)acrylate, glycerol allyloxy di(meth)acrylate,1,1,1-tris(hydroxymethyl)ethane di(meth)acrylate,1,1,1-tris(hydroxymethyl)ethane tri(meth)acrylate,1,1,1-tris(hydroxymethyl)propane di(meth)acrylate,1,1,1-tris(hydroxymethyl)propane tri(meth)acrylate, triallyl cyanurate,triallyl isocyanurate, triallyl trimellitate, diallyl phthalate, diallylterephthalate, divinyl benzene, triallylamine, methylenebis (meth)acrylamide, and combinations thereof.

The monomers having two or more sites of reactive unsaturation arepresent at 0.0001 to 1 mol %, in some cases 0.001 to 0.5 mol % and inother cases 0.01 to 0.25 mol % based on the total number of moles of(A), (B) and (C).

The weight average molecular weight of the polymer-surfactant complex isat least 1,000, in some cases at least 10,000, in other cases at least25,000 and in some situations at least 50,000. Also, the weight averagemolecular weight of the polymer-surfactant complex can be up to10,000,000, in some cases up to 8,000,000, in other cases up to5,000,000, in some situations up to 1,000,000 and in other situations upto 500,0000. The weight average molecular weight can be determined byviscometry or by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) using appropriatestandards; as a non-limiting example, sulfonated polystyrene standardscan be used to determine molecular weight, in which case the Mw value isused as the molecular weight measurement. The Mw of thepolymer-surfactant complex can be any of the values recited above andcan vary between any of the values recited above.

When the molecular weight is determined by viscometry, the molecularweight can be estimated based on as a reduced viscosity value. Thereduced viscosity is determined using a Ubbelohde Capillary Viscometerat 0.05% concentration of polymer in a 1M NaCl solution, pH 7, at 30° C.The reduced viscosity of the complex can be at least 0.1, in some casesat least 0.25, in other cases at least 0.5, in some situations at least1 and in other cases at least 1.5 dl/g. Also, the reduced viscosity ofthe complex can be up to 30, in some cases up to 25, in other cases upto 20, in some situations up to 15 and in other cases up to 10 dl/g. Thereduced viscosity of the polymer-surfactant complex can be any of thevalues recited above and can vary between any of the values recitedabove.

The present polymer-surfactant complexes can be prepared by conventionalsolution polymerization techniques, or alternatively by water-in-oilemulsion polymerization techniques. When preparing the presentpolymer-surfactant complex, the anionic monomer is at least partiallyneutralized as described above and the other monomers are appropriatelycombined therewith to form a monomer mixture. Thus, to prepare theinstant polymers, the appropriate weights for the desired molar ratiosof monomers are charged to a glass reactor equipped with a stirringmeans. The desired total monomer concentration is generally about 10-30%by weight. The monomer mixture is then adjusted to a desired pH asdescribed above and heated, as a non-limiting example, to about 55° C.,and purged with nitrogen for at least thirty minutes. Polymerization isthen initiated by adding an effective amount of a free radicalinitiator, which as a non-limiting example can be 5×10⁻² mol % of sodiumpersulfate and 2.4×10⁻³ mol % of sodium bisulfate. After polymerizationis completed and a peak exotherm temperature is reached, additionaldilution water and sodium bisulfite can be added to scavenge anyresidual monomer and to dilute the final product polymer solids.

The polymer of the present polymer-surfactant complex can be branched orcrosslinked by including suitable “crosslinking” monomers in thepolymerization process as described above.

Further, the polymer-surfactant complexes of the present invention canbe purified or provided in a “narrow” molecular weight distribution formthrough art-recognized methods of polymer fractionation by using poorsolvents and/or non-solvents for the polymer-surfactant complex. Othermethods of fractionating the polymer-surfactant complex include, but arenot limited to, precipitation and membrane separation, including the useof cross-flow membranes.

Embodiments of the present invention are also directed to compositionsfor treating a keratin-based substrate. The compositions contain aneffective amount of the polymer-surfactant complexes, or an effectiveamount of a cosmetically acceptable medium containing thepolymer-surfactant complexes. The cosmetically acceptable medium cancontain at least 0.01%, in some cases at least 0.1%, in other cases atleast 1%, in some situations at least 5%, and in other situations atleast 10% by weight of the present polymer-surfactant complexes. Also,the cosmetically acceptable medium can contain up to 80%, in some casesup to 60%, in other cases up to 50%, in some situations up to 40%, inother situations up to 30% and in certain instances up to 20% by weight,based on the total weight of the cosmetically acceptable medium. Thepolymer-surfactant complexes of the present invention can be present inthe cosmetically acceptable medium at any of the levels recited aboveand can vary between any of the values recited above.

The present compositions for treating keratin-based substrates can alsoinclude a suitable surfactant component. The surfactant component caninclude, but is not limited to amphoteric surfactants, cationicsurfactants, nonionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants andcombinations thereof. The surfactant component is in addition to thesurfactants that are complexed with the anionic monomer as describedabove. The surfactant component, when present, can be included at alevel of at least 1%, in some cases 5% and in other cases at least 10%by weight of the keratin-treating composition. Also, the surfactantcomponent can be present at up to 50%, in some cases up to 35% and inother cases up to 20% by weight of the keratin-treating composition. Thesurfactant component can be present in the keratin-treating compositionat any level recited above or range between any amounts recited above.

Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants,and zwitterionic surfactants that can be used in the surfactantcomponent are those identified above.

Nonionic surfactants which can be used in the surfactant component ofthe keratin-treating composition include those broadly defined ascompounds produced by the condensation of alkylene oxide groups(hydrophilic in nature) with an organic hydrophobic compound, which canbe aliphatic or alkyl aromatic in nature. Non-limiting examples ofclasses of nonionic detersive surfactants are the long chainalkanolamides; the polyethylene oxide condensates of alkyl phenols; thecondensation product of aliphatic alcohols having from about 8 to about18 carbon atoms, in either straight chain or branched chainconfiguration, with ethylene oxide; the long chain tertiary amineoxides; the long chain tertiary phosphine oxides; the long chain dialkylsulfoxides containing one short chain alkyl or hydroxy alkyl radical offrom about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; the alkyl polysaccharide (APS)surfactants such as the alkyl polyglycosides; and the polyethyleneglycol (PEG) glyceryl fatty esters.

In an embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic acceptable medium can beselected, inter alia, from a conditioner, a hair dye, a permanent wave,a hair relaxer, a hair bleach, a hair setting composition, a stylinggel, a mousse, a hair gel, an aftershave, a sunscreen, a hand lotion, amoisturizer, and a shaving cream.

The keratin-treating composition and/or cosmetically acceptable mediumcan be in the form of a liquid, cream, emulsion, gel, thickening lotionor powder. Further, the keratin-treating composition and/or cosmeticallyacceptable medium can contain water and also any cosmetically acceptablesolvents, in particular monoalcohols, such as alkanols having 1 to 8carbon atoms (like ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethylalcohol); polyalcohols, such as alkylene glycols (like glycerine,ethylene glycol and propylene glycol); and glycol ethers, such as mono-,di- and tri-ethylene glycol monoalkyl ethers (like ethylene glycolmonomethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether), used singly orin a mixture. These solvents can be present in proportions of up to asmuch as 70% by weight, relative to the weight of the total composition.

Useful compositions according to the invention can also containelectrolytes, such as aluminum chlorohydrate, alkali metal salts, e.g.,sodium, potassium or lithium salts, these salts can be halides, such asthe chloride or bromide, and the sulphate, or salts with organic acids,such as the acetates or lactates, and also alkaline earth metal salts.In many cases the carbonates, silicates, nitrates, acetates, gluconates,pantothenates and lactates of calcium, magnesium and strontium are used.

These compositions can also be presented in the form of a powder or oflyophilisates to be diluted before use.

The compositions according to the present invention can contain anyother ingredient normally used in cosmetics, such as perfumes, dyestuffswhich can serve to color the composition itself or hair fibers,preservatives, sequestering agents, thickeners, silicones, softeners,foam synergistic agents, foam stabilizers, sun filters, peptising agentsand also anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surface-active agentsor mixtures thereof.

These compositions can be used, in particular, in the form of a cream, agel, or a treatment product which can be applied before or aftercoloring or bleaching, before or after shampooing, before or afterperming or before or after straightening, and can also adopt the form ofa coloring product, a setting lotion, a brushing lotion, a bleachingproduct, a perming product or a straightening product.

The keratin-treating compositions of the present invention optionallycontain a nonvolatile, water insoluble, organic, oily liquid as aconditioning agent. The conditioning oily liquid can protect, lubricateand/or moisturize the skin and add shine, softness and luster to thehair. Additionally, it can also enhance dry combing and dry hair feel.The hair conditioning oily liquid is typically present in thecompositions at a level of from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight of thecomposition, in some cases from about 0.2% to about 3% and in othercases from about 0.5% to about 1%.

By “nonvolatile” what is meant is that the oily material exhibits verylow or no significant vapor pressure at ambient conditions (e.g., 1atmosphere, 25° C.), as is understood in the art. The nonvolatile oilymaterials desirably have a boiling point at ambient pressure of about250° C. or higher.

By “water insoluble” what is meant is that the oily liquid is notsoluble in water (distilled or equivalent) at a concentration of 0.1% at25° C.

The conditioning oily liquids hereof generally will have a viscosity ofabout 3 million centistokes (cs) or less, in some cases about 2 millioncs or less and in other cases about 1.5 million cs or less.

The conditioning oily materials hereof are liquids selected fromhydrocarbon oils and fatty esters. The fatty esters hereof arecharacterized by having at least 12 carbon atoms, and include esterswith hydrocarbon chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols, e.g.,mono-esters, polyhydric alcohol esters, and di- and tri-carboxylic acidesters. The hydrocarbyl radicals of the fatty esters hereof can alsoinclude or have covalently bonded thereto other compatiblefunctionalities, such as amides and alkoxy moieties (e.g., ethoxy orether linkages, etc.).

Hydrocarbon oils include cyclic hydrocarbons, straight chain aliphatichydrocarbons (saturated or unsaturated), and branched-chain aliphatichydrocarbons (saturated or unsaturated). Straight chain hydrocarbon oilsuseful in the invention can contain from about 12 to about 19 carbonatoms, although it is not necessarily meant to limit the hydrocarbons tothis range. Branched chain hydrocarbon oils can and typically cancontain higher numbers of carbon atoms. Also encompassed herein arepolymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as C₂-C₆ alkenylmonomers. These polymers can be straight or branched-chain polymers. Thestraight chain polymers will typically be relatively short in length,having a total number of carbon atoms as described above for straightchain hydrocarbons in general. The branched-chain polymers can havesubstantially higher chain length. The number average molecular weightof such materials can vary widely, but will typically be up to about500, in some cases from about 200 to about 400, and in other cases fromabout 300 to about 350.

Specific examples of suitable materials include, but are not limited to,paraffin oil, mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturatedand unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane,saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturatedhexadecane, and mixtures thereof. Branched-chain isomers of thesecompounds, as well as of higher chain length hydrocarbons, can also beused. Exemplary branched-chain isomers are highly branched saturated orunsaturated alkanes such as the permethyl-substituted isomers, e.g., thepermethyl-substituted isomers of hexadecane and undecane, such as2,2,4,4,6,6,8,8-dimethyl-10-methylundecane and2,2,4,4,6,6-dimethyl-8-methylnonane, sold by Permethyl Corporation. Anon-limiting example of a hydrocarbon polymer is polybutene, such as thecopolymer of isobutylene and butene. A commercially available materialof this type is L-19 polybutene from Amoco Chemical Co. (Chicago, Ill.,USA)

Monocarboxylic acid esters hereof include esters of alcohols and/oracids of the formula R′COOR, wherein R′ and R are alkyl or alkenylradicals and the sum of carbon atoms in R′ and R is at least 10, in manycases at least 20.

Fatty esters include, for example, alkyl and alkenyl esters of fattyacids having aliphatic chains with from about 10 to about 22 carbonatoms, and alkyl and alkenyl fatty alcohol carboxylic acid esters havingan alkyl and/or alkenyl alcohol-derived aliphatic chain with about 10 toabout 22 carbon atoms, and combinations thereof. Examples includeisopropyl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isohexylpalmitate, isopropyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecylstearate, decyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, dihexyl decyl adipate,lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, oleyl stearate, oleyloleate, oleyl myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate and oleyladipate.

The mono-carboxylic acid ester, however, need not necessarily contain atleast one chain with at least 10 carbon atoms, so long as the totalnumber of aliphatic chain carbon atoms is at least 10. Examples includediisopropyl adipate, diisohexyl adipate and diisopropyl sebacate.

Di- and tri-alkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also beused. These include, for example, esters of C₄-C₈ dicarboxylic acidssuch as C₁-C₂₂ esters (in many cases C₁-C₆) of succinic acid, glutaricacid, adipic acid, hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid and octanoic acid.Specific examples include isocetyl stearyl stearate, diisopropyl adipateand tristearyl citrate. Polyhydric alcohol esters include alkyleneglycol mono and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- anddi-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol mono oleate, polypropyleneglycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate,glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty acidesters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycolmonostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyolfatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters and polyoxyethylenesorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol estersfor use herein.

Glycerides include mono-, di- and tri-glycerides. More specifically,included are the mono-, di- and tri-esters of glycerol and long chaincarboxylic acids, such as C₁₀-C₂₂ carboxylic acids. A variety of thesetypes of materials can be obtained from vegetable and animal fats andoils, such as castor oil, safflower oil, cotton seed oil, corn oil,olive oil, cod liver oil, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil, sesame oil,lanolin and soybean. Synthetic oils include triolein and tristearinglyceryl dilaurate. In an embodiment of the invention, the glyceridesare di- and tri-glycerides and in a particular embodiment triglyceridesare used.

The keratin-treating compositions of the present invention optionallycontain a nonvolatile, nonionic silicone conditioning agent which isinsoluble in the compositions hereof. The silicone conditioning agent isintermixed in the composition so as to be in the form of dispersed,insoluble particles or droplets. The silicone conditioning agentcomprises a nonvolatile, insoluble, silicone fluid and optionallycomprises a silicone gum which is insoluble in the composition as awhole, but is soluble in the silicone fluid. The silicone conditioningagent can also comprise other ingredients, such as a silicone resin, toenhance deposition efficiency.

The silicone conditioning agent can include low levels of volatilesilicone components; however, such volatile silicones in many casesexceed no more than about 0.5%, by weight, of the composition.Typically, if volatile silicones are present, it will be incidental totheir use as a solvent or carrier for commercially available forms ofother ingredients, such as silicone gums and resins.

The silicone conditioning agent for use herein can have a viscosity offrom about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 centistokes (cs) at 25° C. using aglass capillary viscometer, in some cases from about 10,000 to about1,800,000 cs, and in other cases from about 100,000 to about 1,500,000cs.

The silicone conditioning agent will be used in the compositions hereofat levels of from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight of the composition,in some cases from about 0.1% to about 10%, in other cases from about0.5% to about 8%, and in some instances from about 0.5% to about 5%. Thesilicone conditioning agent can also be used in combination with theorganic water insoluble liquid.

Suitable insoluble, nonvolatile silicone fluids include, but are notlimited to, polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Otherinsoluble, nonvolatile silicone fluids having conditioning propertiescan also be used. The term “nonvolatile” as used herein shall mean thatthe silicone material exhibits very low or no significant vapor pressureat ambient conditions, as is understood by those in the art. The term“silicone fluid” shall mean flowable silicone materials having aviscosity of less than 1,000,000 cs at 25° C. Generally, the viscosityof the fluid will be between about 5 and 1,000,000 cs at 25° C., in somecases between about 10 and about 100,000 cs.

The nonvolatile polyalkylsiloxane fluids that can be used include, forexample, polydimethyl siloxanes. These siloxanes are available, forexample, from the General Electric Company in their Viscasil® and SF96®series, and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200® series.

The polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids that can be used, also include, forexample, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, forexample, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenylfluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.

The polyether siloxane copolymers that can be used include, for example,a polypropylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane (e.g., Dow CorningDC-1248), although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide andpropylene oxide can also be used. The ethylene oxide and polypropyleneoxide level must be sufficiently low to prevent solubility in water andthe composition hereof.

References disclosing suitable silicone fluids include U.S. Pat. No.2,826,551 to Geen; U.S. Pat. No. 3,964,500 to Drakoff; U.S. Pat. No.4,364,837 to Pader; U.S. Pat. No. 5,573,709 to Wells; British Patent849,433 to Woolston; and PCT Patent Application WO93/08787, thepertinent portions of which are incorporated herein by reference intheir entireties.

Another silicone material that can be especially useful in the siliconeconditioning agents is insoluble silicone gum. The term “silicone gum,”as used herein, means polyorganosiloxane materials having a viscosity at25° C. of greater than or equal to 1,000,000 cs. Silicone gums aredescribed, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,152,416 to Spitzer et al. The“silicone gums” will typically have a mass molecular weight in excess ofabout 200,000, generally between about 200,000 and about 1,000,000.Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane, (polydimethyl siloxane)(methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, poly(dimethyl siloxane) (diphenylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof.

The silicone conditioning agent can include a mixture of apolydimethylsiloxane gum having a viscosity greater than about 1,000,000cs and polydimethyl siloxane fluid having a viscosity of from about 10cs to about 100,000 cs, wherein the ratio of gum to fluid is from about30:70 to about 70:30, in some cases from about 40:60 to about 60:40.

Another optional ingredient that can be included in the siliconeconditioning agent is silicone resin. Silicone resins are highlycrosslinked polymeric siloxane systems. The crosslinking is introducedthrough the incorporation of trifunctional and tetrafunctional silaneswith monofunctional or difunctional, or both, silanes during manufactureof the silicone resin. As is well understood in the art, the degree ofcrosslinking that is required in order to result in a silicone resinwill vary according to the specific silane units incorporated into thesilicone resin.

In general, silicone materials which have a sufficient level oftrifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units (and hence, asufficient level of crosslinking) such that they dry down to a rigid, orhard, film are considered to be silicone resins. The ratio of oxygenatoms to silicon atoms is indicative of the level of crosslinking in aparticular silicone material. Silicone materials which have at leastabout 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom will generally be siliconeresins herein. In many cases, the ratio of oxygen to silicon atoms is atleast about 1.2:1.0. Silanes used in the manufacture of silicone resinsinclude monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, monophenyl-, diphenyl-,methylphenyl-, monovinyl-, and methylvinyl-chlorosilanes, andtetrachlorosilane, with the methyl-substituted silanes being mostcommonly utilized. Non-limiting examples of resins that can be used arethose offered by General Electric as GE SS4230 and SS4267. Commerciallyavailable silicones resins will generally be supplied in a dissolvedform in a low viscosity volatile or nonvolatile silicone fluid. Thesilicone resins for use herein should be supplied and incorporated intothe present compositions in such dissolved form, as will be readilyapparent to those skilled in the art.

Examples of desirable optional silicones useful in the invention includedimethicone, cyclomethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, trimethyl siloxy silicate, polyorganosiloxane,polyalkylsiloxane, polyarylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxane andpolyestersiloxane copolymers.

The keratin-treating compositions of the present invention are typicallyliquids which, desirably, are pourable at room temperature. Thecompositions hereof will comprise an aqueous carrier, i.e., water, whichwill generally be present at a level of about 20% to about 95% by weightof the composition, in many cases from about 60% to about 85% forpourable, liquid formulations such as shampoos, shower gels, liquidhandsoaps, and lotions. The compositions of the present invention canalso be in other forms, such as gels, mousse, etc. In such cases,appropriate components known in the art, such as gelling agents (e.g.,hydroxyethyl cellulose), etc., can be included in the compositions. Gelswill typically contain from about 20% to about 90% water. Mousses willbe a low viscosity composition and will be packaged as a sprayableliquid according to techniques well known in the art, typically in anaerosol canister including a propellant or a means for generating anaerosol spray.

The present keratin-treating compositions can also comprise a varietynon-essential, optional components suitable for rendering suchcompositions more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to providethem with additional usage benefits. A variety of such are known tothose skilled in the art in hair, skin and nail care. These ingredientsare well-known and include, without limiting the invention thereto,pearlescent aids, such as coated mica, ethylene glycol distearate;opacifiers, such as tin; preservatives, such as 1,2-dibromo-2,4-dicyanobutane (MERGUARD® Nalco Chemical Company, Naperville, Ill., USA), benzylalcohol, 1,3-bis(hydroxymethyl)-5,5-dimethyl-2,3-imidazolidinedione(e.g., GLYDANT®, Lonza Inc., Fairlawn, N.J., USA),methylchloroisothiazolinone (e.g., KATHON®, Rohm & Haas Co.,Philadelphia, Pa., USA), methyl paraben, propyl paraben, andimidazolidinyl urea; fatty alcohols, such as cetearyl alcohol, cetylalcohol, and stearyl alcohol; sodium chloride; ammonium chloride; sodiumsulfate; ethyl alcohol; pH adjusting aids, such as citric acid, sodiumcitrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, monosodium phosphate, disodiumphosphate, sodium hydroxide, and sodium carbonate; coloring agents ordyes; perfumes; and sequestering agents, such as disodiumethylenediamine tetra-acetate (EDTA).

Another optional ingredient that can be advantageously used is ananti-static agent. The anti-static agent should not unduly interferewith the in-use performance and end-benefits of the composition. This ismore important for shampoo compositions, and the anti-static agentshould particularly not interfere with the anionic detersive surfactant.Suitable anti-static agents include, for example, tricetyl methylammonium chloride.

Typically, from about 0.1% to about 5% of such anti-static agent isincorporated into the shampoo compositions.

Though the polymer components can act to thicken the presentcompositions to some degree, the present compositions can alsooptionally contain other thickeners and viscosity modifiers such as anethanolamide of a long chain fatty acid, such as polyethylene (3) glycollauramide and coconut monoethanolamide (cocamide MEA), ammonium xylenesulfonate, xanthan gum and hydroxyethyl cellulose.

The optional components can be included in the compositions of thepresent invention at a level of from about 0.01% to about 10%, and insome cases from about 0.05% to about 5.0%, of the composition.

Further, the instant invention is directed to a method for treating akeratin-containing substrate that includes contacting the substrate withthe above defined polymer-surfactant complexes, cosmetically acceptablemedium, and/or keratin-treating compositions. The keratin-containingsubstrate can be human hair, human skin and/or human nails.

In an embodiment of the method of treating keratin-based substrates, thesubstrates can be contacted with a cosmetically acceptable mediumcontaining from 0.1-99.9% by weight of the polymer surfactant complex.

The compositions of the present invention are utilized conventionally,i.e., the hair or skin is conditioned by applying an effective amount ofthe composition to the scalp or skin, and optionally rinsing with water.The term an “effective amount” as used herein, is an amount which iseffective in conditioning, i.e., moisturizing hair and/or skin, makinghair easier to comb, revitalizing hair, or removing or minimizingwrinkles in skin. Generally, from about 1 g to about 20 g of thecomposition is applied for conditioning the keratin substrate.

On hair, the compositions can be left on the hair “as is” or the haircan be rinsed with water after application.

The compositions hereof can also be useful for conditioning the skin.For such applications, the composition would be applied to the skin in aconventional manner, such as by rubbing or massaging the skin with thecomposition, optionally in the presence of water, and then rinsing withwater. In the case of non-rinse-off products, the composition is left infull concentration in contact with the skin.

If the compositions are presented in the form of a thickened lotion or agel, they contain thickeners in the presence or absence of a solvent.The thickeners which can be used are especially carbopol, xanthan gums,sodium alginates, gum arabic and cellulose derivatives, and it is alsopossible to achieve thickening by means of a mixture of polyethyleneglycol stearate or distearate or by means of a mixture of a phosphoricacid ester and an amide. The concentration of thickener is generally0.05 to 15% by weight. If the compositions are presented in the form ofa styling lotion, shaping lotion or setting lotion, they generallycomprise, in aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, thepolymer-surfactant complexes defined above.

If the compositions of the instant invention are intended for use in thedyeing of keratin fibers, and in particular human hair, they generallycontain at least one oxidation dyestuff precursor and/or one directdyestuff in addition to the present polymer-surfactant complexes. Theycan also contain any other adjuvant normally used in this type ofcomposition.

The pH of the dyeing compositions is generally 7 to 11 and can beadjusted to the desired value by adding an alkalizing agent.

The compositions according to the present invention can also be used forwaving or straightening the hair. In this case, the compositiongenerally contains, in addition to the instant polymer-surfactantcomplexes, one or more reducing agents and, if appropriate, otheradjuvants normally used in this type of composition; such compositionsare intended for use conjointly with a neutralizing composition.

The present invention will further be described by reference to thefollowing examples. The following examples are merely illustrative ofthe invention and are not intended to be limiting. Unless otherwiseindicated, all percentages are by weight.

Example 1

A monomer mix containing 46.9 gm of acrylamide (AM), 38 gm of acrylicacid (AA), 10.3 gm of the sodium salt of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (NaAMPS), 102 gm of acryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammoniumchloride (AETAC), 38 gm of soyamidopropyl dimethylamine (CHEMDEX® SO,Lubrizol Corporation), 13.4 gm of sodium hydroxide, 0.13 gm of thetetrasodium salt of ethylenediamine tetracetic acid (EDTA), and 1052.1gm of de-ionized water was prepared. The solution was heated to 65° C.and purged with nitrogen for 30 minutes. Solutions of 0.3 gm of sodiumpersulfate in 3 gm of de-ionized water and 0.063 gm of sodiummetabisulfite in 3.8 gm of de-ionized water were added to initiate thepolymerization. After 45 minutes, 5 gm of sodium metabisulfite and 392.5gm of de-ionized water were added. The resulting sample was a complex ofsoyamido propyl dimethylamine with a tetrapolymer of AM, AA, AMPS andAETAC having a relative monomer mole ratio of 37.5/30/2.5/30. The samplecontained 11.5% active polymer and had a Brookfield viscosity of 26,600cps. as measured by a RV model at 20 rpm with a spindle #6 at 25° C. Theweight ratio of polymer to fattyamido tertiary amine was 84:16.

Example 2

A similar polymer complex was prepared as described in Example 1, exceptcocamidopropyl diamethylamine (CHEMDEX® C, Lubrizol Corporation) wasused in place of the soyamidopropyl dimethylamine. The resulting samplewas a complex of cocamidopropyl dimethylamine with a tetra polymer ofAM/AA/AMPS/AETAC having a relative molar monomer ratio of37.5/30/2.5/30. The sample had a Brookfield viscosity of 29,200 cps. asmeasured by a RV model at 20 rpm with a spindle #6 at 25° C. The weightratio of polymer to fattyamido tertiary amine was 84:16.

Example 3

A complex of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (CHEMDEX® S, LubrizolCorporation) with a tetrapolymer of AM/AA/AMPS/AETAC having a relativemolar ratio of 37.5/30/2.5/30 was prepared as described in Example 1,except that only 19 gm of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine was added anddissolved into the acrylic acid. The sample had a Brookfield viscosityof 9,900 cps, measured as described above.

Example 4 Comparative to Example 1

A tetrapolymer of AM, AA, AMPS and AETAC with the monomer mole ratio ofExample 1 was prepared without the addition of the fatty amidodimethylamine. The sample contained 11.5% active polymer and hadBrookfield viscosity of 5,000 cps as measured above.

Example 5-12

A series of tetrapolymers and terpolymers complexed with variousfatyamido tertiary amines were prepared as described in Example 1 aredescribed in the table below.

Polymer/ Polymer Composition Amine (mole ratio) Weight Example AM AAAMPS AETAC Fatty Amines* Ratio  1 37.5 30 2.5 30 Soyamido- 84/16  2 37.530 2.5 30 Cocamido- 84/16  3 37.5 30 2.5 30 Stearamido- 91/9   4** 37.530 2.5 30 — 100/0   5 20 25 10 45 Cocamido- 80/20  6 20 25 10 45Stearamido- 96/4   7** 20 25 10 45 100/0   8 40 40 — 20 Cocamido- 87/13 9 40 40 — 20 Soyamido- 87/13 10 40 40 — 20 Stearamido- 90/10 11 40 40 —20 Behenamido- 96/4  12** 40 40 — 20 — 100/0  *Fatty amine: fattyamidopropyl dimethylamine **Example 4, 7, 12 are comparative examples.

Example 13

A terpolymer of acrylamide (AM), acrylic acid (AA) andmethacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC) with a relativemonomer molar ratio of 40/40/20 was prepared with stearalmidopropyldimethylamine as described in Example 1. The polymer/amine weight ratiowas 88/12.

Example 14

A terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP), acrylic acid (AA) andmethacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC) with a relativemonomer mole ratio of 34.7/41.8/23.5 was prepared with stearamidopropyldimethylamine as described in Example 1. The polymer amine weight ratiowas 89/11.

Example 15

A copolymer of acrylic acid (AA) and diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride(DADMAC) with a relative mole ratio 36/64 was prepared withstearamidopropyl dimethylamine as described in Example 1. Thepolymer/amine weight ratio was 84/14.

Example 16

This example demonstrates the use of some of the compositions in theprevious examples in a shampoo formulation. A viscous shampoo base wasprepared using the ingredients in the table below (control formulation).

Ingredients % w/w Water, de-ionized add to 100 Ammonium Laureth-3sulfate 6.0 Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate 4.0 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 4.0Coconut Monoethanolamide 1.0 Citric Acid q.s. Sodium Chloride q.s.Tetrasodium EDTA 0.2.

The shampoo as described above was evaluated by applying the formulationas described to the scalp and also formulations where 0.5 wt. % of theindicated compositions were added to the shampoo formulation andevaluated. A panel of eight adults evaluated the shampoo formulationsaccording to their overall feel. The evaluations used the followingscale:

-   -   5=Significant Improvement    -   4=Some Improvement over Control    -   3=No different than Control    -   2=Slightly Worse than Control    -   1=Much worse than Control

The average results from the evaluation panel are shown in the tablebelow.

Example Overall Rating Control 3.0 1 3.8 2 3.8 3 4.0  4* 3.2 10  4.2 12*2.8 14  3.4 *Example 4 and 12 are comparative examples.

The examples demonstrate the improved hair properties observed when thepolymer-surfactant complexes according to the invention are used asconditioning additives in a conditioning shampoo formulation.

Example 17

This example demonstrates the use of some of the compositions in theprevious examples in an after shampoo conditioner formulation. A 2%active polymer solution was prepared by diluting the polymer/aminecompositions with de-ionized water. The 2% solution was appliedseparately as an after shampoo conditioner. The base shampoo describedabove without using an after shampoo conditioner was used as a control.A panel of eight adults evaluated the conditions. The average panel testresult are summarized in the following table.

Example Overall Rating Control 3.0 1 4.2 2 4.0 3 4.4  4* 3.8 5 4.0 10 4.4 12* 3.4 *Example 4 and 12 are comparative examples.

The examples demonstrate the improved hair properties observed when thepolymer-surfactant complexes according to the invention are used as anafter shampoo conditioner.

Example 18

This example demonstrates the use of the composition according toExample 10 in a body wash formulation. An oil free body wash wasprepared using the ingredients in the table below.

Ingredients % w/w Water, de-ionized add to 100 Sodium Laureth-2 Sulfate6.0 Disoium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 4.0 Cocamide MEA 1.0 CocamidopropylBetaine 2.0 Glycol Stearate 1.0 Example 10 4.0 Glycerin 0.2 Citric Acidq.s. Sodium Chloride q.s. Tetrasodium EDTA 0.2

The formulation provided excellent skin feel properties. The Exampledemonstrates the desirable use of the present polymer/fatty aminecomplexes in a body wash formulation.

Example 19

This example demonstrates the use of the composition according toExample 10 in a moisturizing cream formulation. A rich moisturizingcream using the polymer/fatty amine complex of Example 10 was preparedusing the ingredients in the table below.

Ingredients % w/w A Ceteareth-6/Cetearyl Alcohol 2.0 Ceteareth-25Alcohol 2.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.5 Isopropyl Myristate 4.0 Octyl Palmitate3.0 Glyceryl Stearate 3.0 Anhydrous Lanolin 2.0 Dimethicone, 350 cps.1.0 B Example 10 5.0 1,2 Propylene Glycol 3.0 Water, de-ionized 74.5

Components A and B were combined to provide a moisturizing cream.

The present invention has been described with reference to specificdetails of particular embodiments thereof. It is not intended that suchdetails be regarded as limitations upon the scope of the invention.

1-15. (canceled)
 16. A composition for treating a keratin-basedsubstrate comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium containing acomplex comprising a polymer and a surfactant, the complex formed bypolymerizing a monomer mixture comprising: (A) acid functional monomersat least partially neutralized with one or more amines according to oneor more of formulas (I) through (IV):R¹—NR²R³  (I)R¹—N⁺R²R³R⁷X⁻  (II)R⁴—C(O)—NR⁵—R⁶—NR²R³  (III)R⁴—C(O)—NR⁵—R⁶—N⁺R²R³R⁷X⁻  (IV) wherein R¹ and R⁴ are independentlyC₈-C₂₄ linear, branched or cyclic alkyl, aryl, alkenyl, aralkyl oraralkyl; R², R³ and R⁵ are independently H or C₁-C₆ linear, branched orcyclic alkyl, or where R² and R³ combine to form an anelled ring of from4 to 12 carbon atoms in length optionally containing hetero atoms alongthe ring selected from O, S, or N; R⁶ is C₁-C₂₄ linear, branched orcyclic alkylene, arylene, alkenylene, aralkylene or aralkylene, R⁷ is H,C₁-C₁₂ linear, branched or cyclic alkylene, arylene, alkenylene,aralkylene or aralkylene, and X is a halide, a sulfate or a sulfonate;(B) one or more cationic monomers; and optionally (C) one or more othermonomers.
 17. The keratin-treating composition of claim 16, furthercomprising 5% to 50%, by weight, of a surfactant component selected fromthe group consisting of amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants,nonionic surfactants, and zwitterionic surfactants.
 18. Thekeratin-treating composition of claim 17, wherein the amphotericsurfactant is one or more selected from the group consisting of sodium3-dodecyl-aminopropionate, sodium 3-dodecylaminopropane sulfonate,sodium lauryl sarcosinate and N-alkyltaurines.
 19. The keratin-treatingcomposition of claim 17, wherein the zwitterionic surfactant is one ormore selected from the group consisting of coco dimethyl carboxymethylbetaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocobetaine, lauryl amidopropylbetaine, oleyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryldimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethylbetaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, stearylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethylgamma-carboxypropyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, coco dimethylsulfopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryldimethyl sulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropylbetaine, amidobetaines, and amidosulfobetaines.
 20. The keratin-treatingcomposition of claim 16, further comprising a silicone conditioningagent.
 21. The keratin-treating composition of claim 16, furthercomprising an organic water insoluble liquid selected from the groupconsisting of hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters having 10 to 22 carbonatoms, and mixtures thereof.
 22. The keratin-treating composition ofclaim 16, wherein the cosmetically acceptable medium is selected fromthe group consisting of a conditioner, a hair dye, a permanent wave, ahair relaxer, a hair bleach, a hair setting composition, a styling gel,a mousse, a hair gel, an aftershave, a sunscreen, a hand lotion, amoisturizer and a shaving cream.
 23. The keratin-treating composition ofclaim 16, wherein the keratin-based substrate is selected from humanhair, human skin and human nails.
 24. The keratin-treating compositionof claim 16, further comprising one or more other conditioningadditives.
 25. A method of treating a keratin-based substrate comprisingapplying to said substrate the cosmetically acceptable medium accordingto claim 16 containing from 0.1-99.9% by weight of the polymersurfactant complex. 26-27. (canceled)
 28. A complex comprising a polymerand a surfactant formed by polymerizing a monomer mixture comprising:(A) acid functional monomers at least partially neutralized with one ormore amines according to one or more of formulas (I) and (II):R¹—NR²R³  (I)R⁴C(O)—NR⁵—R⁶—NR²R³  (II) wherein R¹ and R⁴ are independently C₈-C₂₄linear, branched or cyclic alkyl, aryl, alkenyl, aralkyl or aralkyl; R²,R³ and R⁵ are independently H or C₁-C₆ linear, branched or cyclic alkyl,or where R² and R³ combine to form an anelled ring of from 4 to 12carbon atoms in length optionally containing hetero atoms along the ringselected from O, S, or N; R⁶ is C₁-C₂₄ linear, branched or cyclicalkylene, arylene, alkenylene, aralkylene or aralkylene, and X is ahalide, a sulfate or a sulfonate; (B) one or more cationic monomers; andoptionally (C), one or more other monomers.
 29. The complex according toclaim 28, wherein the acid functional monomers are (meth)acrylic acidand 2-(meth)acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid.
 30. The complexaccording to claim 28, wherein the cationic monomers are selected fromthe group consisting of (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammoniumhalides, (meth)acryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium halides,(meth)acryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium methyl sulfate, diallyl dialkylammonium halides, and mixtures thereof.
 31. The complex according toclaim 1, wherein the amines are selected from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
 32. The complex according to claim28, wherein the other monomers are selected from the group consisting of(meth)acrylamide, C₁-C₂₂ linear or branched alkyl or aryl(meth)acrylate, C₁-C₂₂ linear or branched N-alkyl or N-aryl(meth)acrylamide, N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, C₁-C₂₂ linear orbranched alkyl or aryl ethoxylated (meth)acrylated, C₁-C₂₂ linear orbranched alkyl or aryl propoxylated (meth)acrylate; N,N—C₁-C₂₂ linear orbranched dialkyl (meth)acrylamide, styrene, C₁-C₂₂ linear or branchedalkyl or aryl allyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
 33. The complexaccording to claim 28, wherein the weight average molecular weight ofthe polymer is at least 1,000 as determined using gel permeationchromatography using sulfonated polystyrene standards.
 34. The complexaccording to claim 28, wherein the polymer has a reduced viscositydetermined using a Ubbelohde Capillary Viscometer at 0.05% concentrationof polymer in a 1M NaCl solution, pH 7, at 30° C. of from 0.1 to 30dl/g.
 35. The complex according to claim 28, wherein the number of molesof acid functional monomer (A) is greater than the number of moles ofcationic monomer (B).
 36. The complex according to claim 28, wherein theanionic monomer (A) is present at from 20% to 90%, the cationic monomer(B) is present at from 5% to 50%, and the other monomer (C) is presentat from 0.1% to 80% based on the number of moles of (A), (B) and (C),wherein the sum percentage of the moles of (A), (B) and (C) is 100%.